Welcome bag maker to an all-new pattern hack! This tutorial was requested many times so we put it together just for you! Read on today to find the steps to add a zippered top to your Classic Market Tote!
Not familiar with the Classic Market Tote pattern? Not to worry! You can find it here. Plus! There’s also a comprehensive video class available for this pattern as well! Click here to find out more!
What you’ll need:
- Classic Market Tote pattern
- Exterior front and back completed but not sewn together
- Lining completed or ready to be completed
- Straps completed and ready to be attached
- 1 piece of fabric 3.25″ by 2″ (8.3cm x 5cm) for the zipper tab
- Chunky/Long Pull zipper – 18″ (45cm) for small OR 22″ (55cm) long for large
Take your chunky/long pull zipper and open it a couple of inches. Place it right side down on your work surface and fold the end of each side of the zipper tape out 90°. Press and glue in place.
Take your outer front panel and make two marks along the top raw edge, 1¼” (3.2cm) in from each side edge. Repeat to make the same marks along the top raw edge of the outer back panel. Place a pin at each 1¼” mark for easy reference.
Place the zipper right sides together with the outer front panel, matching the edge of one side of the zipper with the top edge of the panel. The start of the zipper teeth (NOT the end of the fold in the zipper tape) should sit at the first 1¼” mark. Glue or Clip in place.
Baste the zipper in place using a 1/8” (0.3cm) seam allowance, stitching ONLY between the 1¼” marks. Repeat to attach the remaining side of the zipper to the top edge of the outer back panel, again stitching only between the 1¼” marks. Ensuring that your zipper is not twisted, place your outer pieces right sides together and follow Step 10: Assembling Your Outer Bag. Make sure that the long end of zipper tape does not get caught in your side seam.
Turn the outer bag right side out. I like to press the bottom bag corners now so that they have the shape steamed for the final pressing.
Pin the closed end of the main zipper down near the side seam so the zipper tape curves gently away and down from the top edge of the bag. These pins will stay in when attaching the lining so ensure they are inserted securely. For vinyl, use Wonderclips OR pin directly INTO the seam so the zipper tape doesn’t move.
Take your outer bag, which should be right side out, and feed (squish) it into the lining, which should be the wrong side out. Both bags will now be right sides together. Match top raw edges and side seams. Ensure the zipper tail of the main zipper is tucked down in between the bags so it does not get caught in the top row of stitching.
Stitch to attach using a ¼” (0.6cm) seam allowance, reinforcing 2 – 3 times over the open ends of the zipper. DO NOT TRIM SEAM. Only trim excess zipper tape off at the open end of the zipper
Follow Step 17: Assembling Your Tote to turn your bag out.
Topstitch using a 1/8” (0.3cm) seam allowance. Make sure to position the key strap is also caught in the stitching so it hangs down inside the bag, reinforcing 2-3 times as you pass over the key strap. Also, be sure that the zipper is up and out of the way as you topstitch.
Your topstitching is done now let’s move onto the zipper tab!
Fold your zipper tab in half, right sides together, matching short edges. Stitch to join using a ¼” (0.6cm) seam allowance.
On the right side of your zipper tail, mark lines as follows: 2½” and 3” (6.4cm and 7.6cm) out from the end of the zipper panel. (Both sizes)
Slide the tab piece onto the zipper tail, right sides together, ensuring the seam of the tab is centred underneath the zipper tape. Match the outer raw edge of the tab with the inner 2½” (6.4cm) mark and stitch to attach using a ½” (1.3cm) seam allowance. Cut the excess zipper tape off at the outer 3” (7.6cm) mark.
Turn the tab right side out by unfolding it off the end of the zipper tape. Tuck the raw edge in ½” (1.3cm), up to the end of the zipper, tucking it underneath the tape. Give it a gentle press to keep the shape as you sew. Topstitch around all four sides using 1/8” (0.3cm) seam allowance.
Attach your straps as per Step 18 in the Classic Market Tote pattern and enjoy your new tote!
I chose to do the wider zipper tab for this tutorial because I really wanted this fabric to shine! If you want to see how to do a smaller tab, head to this free video tutorial for how to do that!
There’s just something so classy about adding a zipper top to the Classic Market Tote and I can see many more in my future!
Will you be trying this pattern hack out? If you do, make sure to share your Zippered Top Classic Market Tote in the Andrie Designs Facebook Group and tell us what you think! We love seeing your creations!