So since I have been playing with cork more and more because Lisa got me hooked, we thought we would share with you a new tutorial! Similar to the Double Sided Strap Tutorial, I am going to walk you through how to make a double sided wrist strap! My example today is made for my Mini Classic Clutch but it really will work for any clutch or even just as a keychain!
So let’s get started!
To make a double sided wrist strap you will need (cut sizes to follow):
- A piece of ‘bottom material’ – I’m using cork, however you could also use leather or vinyl
- A piece of ‘top fabric’ – I’m using quilting cotton
- A piece of light-medium weight fusible interfacing
- 1 swivel hook– mine is 1″ (2.5 cm) size
- Rivet to finish (optional) – mine is 9mm size
- Thread, tape/glue (most important!) and general sewing supplies
1. Cut your pieces as follows (but first, take a deep breath as there’s a little bit of maths involved… However, if you work through it systematically, it will all work out… Trust the process):
- Bottom material (i.e. cork) – WIDTH = size of hardware x 2; LENGTH = as directed by pattern
- My example – WIDTH = 1″ x 2 = 2″ (2.5cm x 2 = 5.1cm); LENGTH = 13″ (33cm)
- Therefore, for my example – cut one piece measuring 2″ x 13″ (5.1cm x 33cm)
- Top fabric (i.e. quilting cotton) – WIDTH = size of hardware x 2, less 3/8″ (1cm); LENGTH = length of bottom material
- My example – WIDTH = 1″ x 2 = 2 ″, less 3/8″ = 1 5/8″ (2.5cm x 2 = 5.1cm, less 1cm = 4.1cm); LENGTH = 13″ (33cm)
- Therefore, for my example – cut one piece measuring 1 5/8″ x 13″ (4.1cm x 33cm)
- Note – If you are using a thick vinyl or leather, you may need to increase the length of your top fabric so it is slightly longer for the top stitching at step 9!
- Interfacing – WIDTH = size of hardware less 1/4″ (0.6cm); LENGTH = length of top material
- My example – WIDTH = 1″ less 1/4″ = 3/4″ (2.5cm less 0.6cm = 2cm) LENGTH = 13″- 1/2″ =12.5″(33cm – 1.25cm = 31.75cm)
- Therefore, for my example – cut one piece measuring 3/4″ x 12.5″ (2cm x 31.75cm)
2. Fuse the interfacing down the centre of the top fabric, on the wrong side, ensuring the interfacing is as centred as possible along the entire length of the fabric.
Fold and press each long side of the fabric over and onto the interfacing. Set aside for now.
3. Take your bottom material (i.e. cork, vinyl or leather) and draw a line down the centre, on the wrong side, running parallel with the long edges. In my example, my line is 1″ (2.5cm) in from each long edge.
Place a strip of tape either side of the centre line, running the entire length of the strip stopping 1″ (2.5cm) away from each end (or use glue once you get to the next step).
4. Working down one long side at a time, remove backing from the tape (or apply glue) and fold the long edge over to the centre line you’ve drawn, wrong sides together. Press firmly in place to adhere however, leave the ends loose for the next step!
Repeat to fold and adhere the second long side, ensuring both long raw edges meet in the middle at the line you drew earlier.
5. Slide your bottom fabric onto your swivel hook so it is “upside down” with the right side of your cork facing the flat edge of the ring. Open the short ends and sew together using a 1/4″ seam allowance. It may get a little sticky with your tape, so stitch much slower if need be!
6. Finger press your seam open so it is flat and fold the edges towards the centre. Top stitch using a 1/8″ (0.3cm) seam allowance down each long side to secure. I like to lengthen my stitch length a little more than for regular top stitching when working with cork – it usually ends up around 3.5mm long. Move your swivel hook as you sew.
7. Slide your top fabric onto your swivel hook so the wrong side is facing your cork (both centre line folds will be touching). Open the short ends and sew together using a 1/4″ seam allowance.
8. Finger press your seam open and fold edges towards the centre. Flip the fabric onto your bottom material. Line up your top fabric and bottom fabric seam before moving to the next step. It may feel like the fabric is too small when you put it on top of the cork BUT it will all smooth out as you sew!
9. Top stitch to secure with the fabric side of the strap facing UP. Use a 1/8″ (0.3cm) seam allowance and use the edge of the fabric strip as your guide (NOT the edge of the cork). Stitch down both sides of the strap to secure. Move your swivel hook as you sew.
10. Fold the strap in half ensuring the joining seam is approximately 3/4″ up from the swivel hook. Stitch on either side of the joining seam to secure using a 1/4″ seam allowance. Only stitch across the top fabric and not over it onto the cork!
11. If desired, place a rivet in the middle of the two lines you just created.
Now stand back and enjoy your pretty little wrist strap.
I just LOVE how it looks attached to my Classic Clutch. It really brings everything all together!
- Cork – Oh Look! Fabric!
- Swivel hooks and rivets – Emmaline Bags
I hope you have enjoyed this little tutorial and that you are now just itching to give it a try! If you are looking for another pattern to try this with, why not make a Gather Me Up Clutch or Statement Clutch with a double sided wrist strap! Another option is making one short and adding it to your keychain!
*Don’t forget to check out the “Creating a Double Sided Strap” tutorial for your next bag too!*
If you give this tutorial a try, leave a comment below or hop over to the Andrie Designs Pattern Group and share a picture with us there!
The Little Bird Designs
4 thoughts on “Creating a Double Sided Wrist Strap”
I love this, and haven’t beeen able to get it straight. This is a great tutorial! I do have a question.. won’t the rivet ruin the seam? I don’t understand how putting a hole through a seam wouldn’t mess with the integrity of the seam.
Hi Hilary! Thanks for your comment! With regards to rivet placement and seam integrity, a lot depends on the stitch length you used to create the seam in the first place as a shorter stitch length means it will likely hold together still once a hole is punched and before a rivet is installed. Once a rivet is installed, that will then, in a way, replace the work of the seam. There are also the two seams either side of where you’re attaching the rivet to hold everything together. However, if you’re worried about the seam, or would rather not punch through the stitching, you can always stitch one horizontal top stitching line closer to the seam (at step 10), and the second further away. This will mean the initial row of stitching will be off-centre and so won’t be cut when you punch a hole for the rivet. Hope that helps! 🙂
Thank you for this! It worked perfectly!
You’re most welcome! Great to hear it worked so well and you’re happy with the result! 🙂